SPF: Beyond the Actives

Summer’s door is opening and that’s when most think about their sun exposure risk. The big question is, how can you optimize your protection?

Most people are familiar with the standard recommendations from the American Academy of Dermatology for selecting a sunscreen. These include using a broad spectrum sunscreen that can protect your skin from both types of harmful UV rays — the UVA rays and the UVB rays, selecting an SPF of 30 or higher, and ideally using a water resistant sunscreen to provide adequate coverage between reapplication during periods of water exposure or sweating. But to add a layer of complexity, the secret to “hacking” your way to more protection may lie in the small print on your product label.

While there has been a tremendous amount of research into how the sun damages skin and methods for mitigating damage, the basic options a consumer has for active ingredients in sunscreens has changed little over the decades. The big shift has occurred in what the FDA considers “inactive” ingredients, that being any component of a drug product other than the active ingredient.

Innovative formulations are now available with “inactives” that enhance the product’s protective qualities against photoaging, including antioxidants and novel enzymes.

Antioxidants and scavengers of reactive oxygen species, or inhibitors of their formation, should be considered paramount when shopping. Look for products containing any of the following: α-tocopherol (Vitamin E), Bis (Cyano Butylacetate) Anthracenediylidene (trade name: Micah), phenol-4-[(1E,3S)-3-ethenyl-3,7-dimethyl-1,6-octadienyl] (Bakuchiol), Centella asiatica (gotu kola), Niacinamide, Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10; ubiquinone), green tea polyphenols, and Vitamin C or its derivatives. These molecules optimize the antiaging and photoprotection of the active sunscreen ingredients.

A new fascinating addition to sunscreen technology includes incorporation of DNA repair enzymes, two of which found to play a major role are photolyase and T4 endonuclease V. These enzymes are capable of identifying and removing UV‐R‐induced dimeric photoproducts. Clinical studies revealed that sunscreens with liposome‐encapsulated types of photolyase and/or T4 endonuclease V can enhance these repair mechanisms. While further studies are needed to establish superiority and antiaging claims, this technology adds an intriguing advancement.

From a standpoint of hacking the “inactives”, this summer and year-round, look into one of these sun-savvy products:

Marini Physical Protectant: SPF 30 UVA & UVB broad spectrum protection with water resistance, additional antioxidant protection and superior wear. Phytomelanin & Micah(R) further enhance antioxidant projection against free-radical damage from UV and the environment.

iS Clinical Extreme Protect SPF 30: A broad spectrum UVA/UVB protection with powerful antioxidants to mitigate oxidative solar damage. Features microfine Zinc Oxide and microencapsulated organic active sunscreens, their proprietary Extremozyme® technology, Centella Asiatica, and Tocopherol, in a nourishing and hydrating formula.

iS Clinical Extreme Protect SPF 40: A multilevel environmentally protective treatment formula featuring proprietary Extremozyme® technology combined with all-physical sunscreen actives. This antioxidant-rich broad spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen helps support optimal skin health as it moisturizes and protects.